SANTIAGO

We have arrived at our destination triumphant, tired and feeling terrific.

Today was a glorious day, a solid 26 km, full of hills, forests, cute little farm towns and lots of pilgrims. Everything we love about the Camino in other words. The much dreaded rain never materialized, and we were treated to lovely weather the whole day. Even as we watched the markers count down the kilometers, we were energized by brief glances of the cathedral in the distance, as Santiago worked her magic to drag us in.

We started off the day at 8am, and only took a brief snack stop and lunch on our way into the city, arriving at 4 to the sounds of the Cathedral bells and the ever present bagpipes welcoming pilgrims home.

The cathedral is glorious. The scaffolding that was present on the famous facade on our previous caminos is finally gone, and she looks stunning without it. Towering up into the heavens. We arrived with a small group of pilgrims and joined pilgrims from all the different routes, collapsing in the courtyard in from of the cathedral. We sat for half an hour gazing up at the cathedral and people watching as fellow travelers hugged and danced and did yoga and celebrated their accomplishment. There's nothing like finishing a Camino.

While last time we were here the inside of the cathedral was unblemished, now the inside is all under construction, and sadly none of the splendor is visible.

Of course not all is perfect on our last day, as when we arrived at our hotel, tired, sweaty, achy and blistered, we found that our bags had been left elsewhere. After checking two different places we finally found them (and had to pay for their release) and dragged them back to our hotel and up 3 flights of stairs. We were exhausted. Absolutly exhausted. I have 4 bad blisters and around a dozen mosquito bites. One of which blistered and swelled up. Naturally my Dad has no bites and no blisters. Next Camino I'm bringing bug spray.

To Padron

Rain rain go away. Please.

Another rainy day, we have a solid 19 km to walk to Padron from Caldas de rey, the site where the Stone boat that took the apostle St James from Jerusalem washed ashore. 

Despite the rain it was a gorgeous walk through forests and those cute little towns we love so much and all the cool farms. Pigs, sheep, pimento peppers, corn. We stoped after a hard 5 km for breakfast in a cool bar full of pilgrims. It seems that we caught up with a large group.  After a much needed cafe con leche and freshly squeezed oj, we set off once again. The rain eventually died off when we passed by an old convent, which offers free lodging for pilgrims in the basement. We didnt stay there though, as our handsomeness would undoubtedly temp the nuns too much.

We finally reached padron at around 4, but we had to wait for 9 pm to eat.

After a refreshing drink (and man do bars here make Bank on hungry pilgrims desperately looking for calories while they wait for meal times) I wondered around town to see the glorious sites offered. Another convent and a lovely Romanesque church, home of the mooring stone that the boat that brought st james supposedly moored to. Not sure why they think that exactly.

It was a nice Church of that style. Containing the typical crucifixion motifs, with a focus on the apostles and st James of course. It also offered an interesting shrine to the other st James, St James the moorslayer.

It depicted the aforementioned saint on horseback swinging his sword at two Muslim moores who are on their knees begging for mercy. It may be heretical for me to say, but I dont find that to be particularly saintlike behavior.

We finished our day with a well earned and aboslutly delicious meal of pimento peppers a padron (awesome sauted local peppers) razer clams and a plate of ribs and chicken. And of course the ever present vino tinto and french fries. 

Tomorrow is our last day on the camino. 26 km to Santiago de Compenstello. We decided to try one of the bag services, where for 5 euros they will transport your bag for you to the hotel. With this long last day, i think itl work out great!

Buen Camino a fin!

Into Vigo and beyond

Yay another nice day. We seem to be rotating, nice day, wet day, nice day, wet day...

Solid walk to Vigo today. Through beautiful paths and cute towns. Very hilly, but also green and beautiful. We skipped breakfast at the hotel to get an early start, and grabed some cafe con leche about 5 km in. That coffee is beyond delicious I swear.

After crossing a ancient roman bridge, we climbed up into the hills of galicia, past vinyards and farms. Through little vilages and hamlets that would never see a tourist if not for the camino. After searching and searching for lunch we had a quick (utterly delicious) coffee and coke a cola at a lovely coffee shop before bucking down and pushing through to Vigo. Sadly we found out later that we suffered a great loss in that coffee shop. As my Dad lost his hat. RIP hat.

Vigo is famous for having one of the best beaches in the world, off the coast on the cies islands. While we didnt have time to see them this trip, I will have to keep Vigo in mind for a visit. After a late lunch of hamburgers (my Dad insisted) we had a few drinks and people watched while resting our weary feet and hoping our laundry dried out.

Despite Vigo being a famous fishing city, home of the largest fishing fleet, we decided in our infinite wisdom to visit a steak House for dinner. Of course this being Spain the steakhouse isnt open until 9 pm, so we searched for a bar for a cocktail before dinner. My Dad had to explain to the bartender how to make a martini, while I was told no cocktails before 230 am. Yes thats right, 230 am. Apparently a martini isnt a cocktail. What an odd country sometimes.

Our steak was delicious, Argentina style. We came to the conclusion though that tomorrow we need to make a big jump ahead. The rain has dragged our pace down and more rain is in the future.  We need to finish on Tuesday, so we have no choice but to skip a section and take a train to caldas de rey, about 50 km from santiago. We will walk to padron on monday and then finish in Santiago the day after. Perhaps our original schedule was a bit too ambitious, but we will push through regardless.  While regrettable, finishing on schedule is more important.

Buen camino.

SPAIN

Well its been a few days. Sorry about that, we've been exhausted.

Our entrance into Spain was a unique experience. Gorgeous day. We arrived at the ferry bright and early, ready to set off. Of course the ferry doesnt run until 11:30, we found out. But you can take a water taxi for 10 euros earlier. Nice racket they have going there. The only other way across the river is a 20 km walk to the nearest bridge and back. So naturally everyone takes the taxi. This was the first time ive taken a boat to another country. As an American I was surprised by the lack of security, immigration, port officials, cavity searches and detention center. Spain should build a wall and make mexico pay.

Immediately upon entering Spanish Galicia things had changed. Gone was the flat roads through little towns and on main roads. Galicia is a country of hills and mountains. Up and down. Up and down. Through forests, and little alleyways, on the outskirts of town. This is a Camino we recognized well.

We had made a bit of a mistake our first day into Spain, we made reservations at an incredibly cool hotel, built into an old convent, complete with amazing decorations and old manuscripts. But that town, a gaurdia was only 5 km into spain. So we finished walking around 11 am. Still our mistake bore fruit, when we had a spectacular meal of a mariscado for lunch. With our favorite razor clams, shrimp, scallops, crab, mussels, clams. It was an incredible meal. We spent the day walking around the neat city, touring the local church and watching the ocean before being convinced to try a local spiny lobster for dinner in an empty resteraunt.  Delicious meal, with gorgeous modern art from local artists in the wall, but no one else in the place. Even at 9pm we were considered early for dinner. We will never get used to meal times in spain.

The following day was difficult. Long, mainly on the side of the highway and with hard rain. We arrived at Baiona just in time for the sun to pop out, naturally, and enjoyed some local crabs and people watched for a few hours outside of a Irish pub, with an odd sewing theme. We went back to the hotel early with plans of sleeping in, but Spain had other ideas. It seems Friday nights are particularly rowdy. With people smoking and drinking well into the early morning of 4 am. It struck me how odd it is now to see someone smoking in a bar again.

Tomorrow is another long trek into the beautiful, massive town of vigo.

Last thoughts on Portugal

Today was our last day in the great country of Portugal. We spent the night in the busy town of caminha, located right on the boarder with spain.

Todays hike was a magnificent one, past beaches with stunning waves and past forests of massive eucalyptus. We detoured a bit off the trail to walk along the shore and watch the boats.

Caminha seems to be a big tourist town for some reason. Lots of pilgrims, but also lots of european tourists. Its a cute town, centered around a fountain and chruch, with little streetside cafes surounding it. We had a delicious late lunch of the best damn shrimp we have ever had, and a plate of ribs. Spectacular food, as we drank wine and people watched. Truly a perfect way to spend our last night in Portugal.

Last thoughts on the people of Portugal: they are a beautiful proud people. Constantly I saw people working on their nice houses, always with a wall around it. People take pride in their house, painting, washing and planting beautiful flowers on their balconies.

Their kindness was a blessing, with people rushing over to us to wish a bon camino, or to offer directions and advice.  Most of the people we interacted with spoke excellent English and we happy to converse with us.

The food was spectacular. I've found a life long new friend in the nata, or Portuguese egg cream tart. Expect me to try and figure out how to make them soon. We succeded in our goal of fish everyday. With dishes of monkfish, cod, shrimp, octopus and squids leading the way. Espresso is a must at every meal and bar, for less than a euro its a bargain, and so strong and delicious. We received stunned responses when denying an espresso after dinner.  Port wine of course was always a must.

The fashion industry must be massive in Portugal. I saw hundreds of clothing stores, cosmetics, hair exc. People always seemed well dressed in designer clothing. While both my Dad and I preferred our time on our last caminos in Spain, portugal will remain close to our hearts.

My Dad washed my mouth out with soap

Nice distance today. Mainly side roads through tiny towns and through small eucalyptus groves. We have reached the town of viana de castello, after crossing yet another bridge made by Eiffle.

This is a neat city, full of churches both old and new, ally ways full of shops and music. Old and new europe at it's finest. Weather was rainy and misty so i don't have the best pictures from today, but the view from on top of the giant church of santa luzia at the top of the hills behind the city was breathtaking despite the fog.

We are staying at a hotel on top of the local chocolate museum. My dad took advantage of my chocolate addiction, putting the chocolate bar looking soaps he found in the bathroom on top of my pillow. Naturally when i saw them on the beds i had to try one, and took a giant bite into a bar of soap. I can still taste it.

Delicious lunch of squash soup and some squids, and a dinner of clams and lovely fresh fish. Life is good. Tomorrow will be our last in Portugal, as we head to the town of Caminha, on the boarder with Spain.

Third day ready for the next

Finally the weather really cooperated.  An easy day through some parklands, over some rivers and past the ever present coastline of the Atlantic.

We are feeling stronger than ever, with the wind at our backs and the kilometers slowly but steadily winding down to Santiago. After a bizarre lunch of beans and organ meats we settled down in our hostels balcony with some wine and lots of laughter.  Portugal has treated us well, with its beautiful coasts, delicious food and kind people. As Spain starts to appear on the horizon we see more and more familiar sights. Jamon hanging from the ceilings, the farmland so prevent in galicia, the horerios where grain is stored in northern Spain.

The generosityof Portugal will be remembered as we set off to our next arc of this journey. From kind locals leaning out of their vehicles to offer us a bon Camino, to the bar tender who agonized over which wine to give my dad before insisting we take both (both being delicious of course). In 2 days we will be at the end of Portugal and ready to set forth to Spain!

We can hardly wait. 

Second day's an improvement

Weather was gorgeous today. Ended up at a gorgeous hotel in parvoa de vazim, complete with a spa and beachside view. Pretty much excausted today after a solid 14 or so km.

We started out early through nice neighborhoods and sleepy towns in a Sunday morning. Passing by a roman aqueduct was a neat high point. Agree a quick snack on the ever present expresso(as they spell it) and a nata (portuguese egg cream tart) we carried on by boardwalks and beaches before a lunch of clams and an ox steak.

We arrived tired and sore, and took advantage of the hotel spa, sauna and steam room. Not sure if that helped as despite short term relief we are now tighter than ever, walking like old men.  Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow will bring. Looking like another nice day before the rain returns on Tuesday.

First day on the trail

Not even a full day in and I already have blisters on my toes.

Today it rained. A lot. A lot a lot. While my boots are wonderful in many ways, they proved today that they are no match for non stop torrents of rain, as my feet got soaked and blisters have inevitably followed. We did make it to vila cha, a lengthy 18 km of tough walking.  The trail consisted of mainly boardwalks on the beach, with what just be lovely views on nice days. Instead we got soaked, blanketed with strong wind and forced on multiple occasions to seek shelter.

Despite the difficulties, our spirits remain high and after a spectacular dinner of roasted seafood we are prepared for an easy day tomorrow. We need to rest up after today, and so will only head out 12 km tomorrow. We will need it, as we will be starting late to let our clothes dry out. 

Sore, aching and damp, I suspect tonight we will sleep like pilgrims.

Porto Day 1

Of all the thing we expected. Listening to a Portuguese Guitarist play John Denver songs outside our hotel wasnt even in our ball park. West Virginia take me home indeed.

Arrived after a grueling day of flights and travel, exhausted but eager for adventure. Our first day started out strong as encountered a group of Ultra fans of the Swiss football club Young Boys, marching towards the Porto FC stadium for a European cup game that night.

After checking into our hotel (and drinking our complementary glass of Port of course) we set of for an adventure in the nightlife of this vibrant city! Of course right in front of our hotel a street preformer from Brazil had attracted quite a crowd and so we immediately abandoned our adventure and loitered at the street side cafe to listen to her sing.  Drinking the famous Portuguese green wine, as we were serenaded with Portuguese classics like Toxic by Brittney Spears, Bang Bang I shot you down and of course Take me Home, Country roads. Finishing the day off with a plate of wild boar, and catching the soccer game at a bar, our first impression of Porto was strong.

The next day has cemented that in our minds, from grazing appetizers, wine and of course the famous local cod, to a tour of one of the Port cellars. This is a beautiful, vibrant city. With gorgeous views of the hills and rivers, architectural marvels like the Eiffle style bridge.  The people are friendly and welcoming, with a strong sense of fasion and unfailingly polite. YoOu could spend a month here and not see all this City has to offer. Sadly we only had the one day to spare, tomorrow we set off from Porto to the beach side town of Mindelo. A 17 KM, 11 mile, hike along the coast.

Country roads, take me home. To the place, I belong. Santiago.

9/17/2019

One day away from walking the Camino de Santiago from Porto Portugal!

Everything is packed and ready, for my Dad and I to begin our 280 km (180 miles) trip along the costal path. We will be spending a pair of days in porto before starting off on the beaches of Portugal on our second pilgrimage to Santiago. With stops at the famous Cies islands off the cost of Vigo Spain, Pontevedra one of the oldest towns in galicia, and hopefully ending it all with a short hop over to Barcelona, the party capital of Europe. This blog will serve as a travel log, which pilgrims have kept for Centuries.