Wednesday, October 2, 2019

SANTIAGO

We have arrived at our destination triumphant, tired and feeling terrific.
Today was a glorious day, a solid 26 km, full of hills, forests, cute little farm towns and lots of pilgrims. Everything we love about the Camino in other words. The much dreaded rain never materialized, and we were treated to lovely weather the whole day. Even as we watched the markers count down the kilometers, we were energized by brief glances of the cathedral in the distance, as Santiago worked her magic to drag us in.

We started off the day at 8am, and only took a brief snack stop and lunch on our way into the city, arriving at 4 to the sounds of the Cathedral bells and the ever present bagpipes welcoming pilgrims home.
The cathedral is glorious. The scaffolding that was present on the famous facade on our previous caminos is finally gone, and she looks stunning without it. Towering up into the heavens. We arrived with a small group of pilgrims and joined pilgrims from all the different routes, collapsing in the courtyard in from of the cathedral. We sat for half an hour gazing up at the cathedral and people watching as fellow travelers hugged and danced and did yoga and celebrated their accomplishment. There's nothing like finishing a Camino.

While last time we were here the inside of the cathedral was unblemished, now the inside is all under construction, and sadly none of the splendor is visible.

Of course not all is perfect on our last day, as when we arrived at our hotel, tired, sweaty, achy and blistered, we found that our bags had been left elsewhere. After checking two different places we finally found them (and had to pay for their release) and dragged them back to our hotel and up 3 flights of stairs. We were exhausted. Absolutly exhausted. I have 4 bad blisters and around a dozen mosquito bites. One of which blistered and swelled up. Naturally my Dad has no bites and no blisters. Next Camino I'm bringing bug spray.






Tuesday, October 1, 2019

To Padron

Rain rain go away. Please.

Another rainy day, we have a solid 19 km to walk to Padron from Caldas de rey, the site where the Stone boat that took the apostle St James from Jerusalem washed ashore. 
Despite the rain it was a gorgeous walk through forests and those cute little towns we love so much and all the cool farms. Pigs, sheep, pimento peppers, corn. We stoped after a hard 5 km for breakfast in a cool bar full of pilgrims. It seems that we caught up with a large group.  After a much needed cafe con leche and freshly squeezed oj, we set off once again. The rain eventually died off when we passed by an old convent, which offers free lodging for pilgrims in the basement. We didnt stay there though, as our handsomeness would undoubtedly temp the nuns too much.
We finally reached padron at around 4, but we had to wait for 9 pm to eat.

After a refreshing drink (and man do bars here make Bank on hungry pilgrims desperately looking for calories while they wait for meal times) I wondered around town to see the glorious sites offered. Another convent and a lovely Romanesque church, home of the mooring stone that the boat that brought st james supposedly moored to. Not sure why they think that exactly.

It was a nice Church of that style. Containing the typical crucifixion motifs, with a focus on the apostles and st James of course. It also offered an interesting shrine to the other st James, St James the moorslayer.

It depicted the aforementioned saint on horseback swinging his sword at two Muslim moores who are on their knees begging for mercy. It may be heretical for me to say, but I dont find that to be particularly saintlike behavior.
We finished our day with a well earned and aboslutly delicious meal of pimento peppers a padron (awesome sauted local peppers) razer clams and a plate of ribs and chicken. And of course the ever present vino tinto and french fries. 

Tomorrow is our last day on the camino. 26 km to Santiago de Compenstello. We decided to try one of the bag services, where for 5 euros they will transport your bag for you to the hotel. With this long last day, i think itl work out great!

Buen Camino a fin!